In textile hand embroidery, embellishment is made on fabric with threads and sometimes with other materials. Various types of hand embroideries are practiced in India. Each type of embroidery is different from the other and has its own beauty and significant value. Cardoza, one of such embroidery, is one the world famous textile hand embroidery craft.
Main clusters: In India there are many popular embroidery clusters such as Chikankari and zardozi of Lucknow, katha of Bengal, fulkari of Punjab, kutchi embroidery of Gujarat and kashidakari of Kashmir.
Cardoza has been traditionally prevalent in Lucknow and the six
Surrounding districts of Barabanki, Unnao, Sitapur, Rae Bareli, Hardoi and Amethi. Lucknow zardozi has been accorded the Geographical Indication (GI) registration.
Artisans involved: The Lucknow zardozi cluster supports an estimated 1.75 lakh artisans.
Around 2 lakh people directly involved in the supply and value chain in the cluster. Further, the Chikankari cluster of Lucknow provides employment to
2.5 lakh people.
Raw material used: Basic materials used for this craft are cotton and silk threads of various colours, mirrors, beads, metal wire, cotton, silk, leather, fish skin, teeth, bones, feathers, horn, shells, beetle wings, tassels, coins.
Raw material used for Chikankari embroidery includes untwisted mill yarn (Muga), silk, crepe, organise, cotton, terry-cotton, chiffon, muslin or Tussar Yarn.
Hand printed textiles is a craft in which cloth is dyed with hand or
Printed using shapes. Various types of hand printing practiced in India are block printing, batik, kalmkari (hand printing by pen) and bandhani (tie and die).
Main clusters:
Process:
Sanganeri style printing
Some of the important centres of this craft are in the states of Andhra Pradesh (Hyderabad, Machalipattnam), Uttar Pradesh (Varanasi, Farrukabad), Orissa, Madhya Pradesh (Bagh, Behrongarh, Indore, Mandsar, and Burhanpur), Gujarat (Ahmedabad, Rajkot, and Kutch), Maharashtra and Rajasthan (Bagru, Chittroli, Sanganer, Jaipur, and Jodhpur).
Originally natural dyes were used for printing, however, in the current scenario they have been replaced by chemical and artificial colours.
Hand printing is undertaken on both cotton and silk fabrics of varying counts.
Main tools for hand printing (block printing) are wooden/metal blocks of different shapes, paatiya (table padded with jute and covered with cloth on which the fabric to be printed is spread across), brushes (for cleaning the flocks of wax), heating vessel (to maintain temperature of the mendh), indigo vats, steel chisels, and metal sheets.
Block printing is a common art practiced all over India. Steps involved in Mendh Ki chapai (block printing)of Rajasthan are shown below. The process in its entirety takes about 15-20 days. Washing and
Traditionally, natural fibres have been used in all cultures for making utilitarian products. Different parts of the plant are used for preparing various handicrafts such as footwear, basketry, mats, chik, bags, lampshades, and boxes. Fibbers can be extracted from the bark (banana, jute, hemp, and ramie), stem (banana, palm, and bamboo), leaf (palm, screw pine, sisal, and agave), husk (coir), seeds (cotton), and grass (sikki, madhurkati, benakati, munj).
Main clusters: Fiber is found in many states including Maharashtra (sisal), Kerala (palm leaf, korai grass), Tamil Nadu (palm leaf, korai grass), Assam (shitalpatti), Meghalaya (shitalpatti), Bihar (Sikki and Munj grass), etc.
Major centres of this craft are Almora and Dehradun in Uttaranchal, Goa, Ernakulam in Kerala, Kullu in Himachal Pradesh, Midnapur in West Bengal, etc
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Combed yarn is a yarn spun from cotton fiber through a combed spinning system. The combed yarn is made of high-quality raw materials. The fibers in the yarn are straight and parallel, with less knots, good gloss, evenness, and high strength.
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1 Physical filtering will not decay with the increase of use time and the efficiency will not decrease.
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